Hello, 3D Printing friends! Today we’re going to remix a thing to fix a thing that I found on Thingiverse. The screw holes in the printed part were way too small, but now they’re just right.
UPDATE: The original designer, Hangtight, fixed the problems with the original file. So, I recommend using the originals, linked below!
Original Thing
Creality V6/ Volcano/ J12 Hiflow 40mm Hotend Fan Mount and Part Cooling Duct by Hangtight
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3356523
Remixed Thing
[Consider it an example of how to fix things with Tinkercad, but try the original designer’s repaired parts, above!]
[BV3D REMIX] Creality V6 40mm Hotend & Fan Mount
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4395947
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FROM NOW ON if you want to make any sort of comment about how a drill should have been used, you have to sign a document indicating you have watched the video from the 11:50 point through the 16:00 point, and that you've read the fifty OTHER comments all saying the same thing, AND in your comment, you have to tell me how you would've drilled a hexagonally-shaped hole. 😉 Sincerely, the management.
It’s funny because I understand you, but this gets really funny if you imagine you had no idea about 3D printing and stumbled onto this. It would sound like Star Trek Technobabble lol
Great tutorial fir remixing STLs in Tinkercad. Thanks for your clear explanation!
Love your t-shirt! If you like coffee, I should send you a package of my Toque de Cacao —a Honduras bean that tastes very chocolatey as an espresso (or even when it cools as a drip/pourover)! This was a GREAT video. I’m new to TinkerCAD but took 4 years of drafting back in the pre-computer days of the mid-70s. Thanks for all of the great info & tips! I will definitely check out your other content.
Thanks. Never considered tinkercad as usually design via openscad or freecad. But the remix option in tinkercad looks really useful for STL files. Will give it a try.
Great tutorial on TinkerCad! Thanks for the content!
Excellent info! Thank you. Been finding with all the free files. This is far too common of an issue to be solved 🙌🤘
super helpful, thank you 🙂
Buddy Thanks for the well-made video!!
I will mention using a drill to size the holes correctly because there is a special case where this is the only way to get the hole and the fitting part sized correctly. That is very small holes in very small 3D-printed parts. In my case, a 2mm diameter rod 5mm long that slides in a hole in a curved part approximately 5mm square and 3 mm thick. At this scale, 0.1mm is 5% of the width of the hole and the rod, it is unreasonable to expect any 3D printer to print very small parts precisely. My solution was to print each of the parts on the end of a larger rod that I could hold in my lathe so they could be finished to the correct size quickly and precisely, then parted off the mandrel. Finishing these 2 small parts in the lathe took less than 5 minutes and made it possible to repair a $5000 instrument when no OEM parts were available. The big problem with fixing holes with any hand-held tool is keeping the holes round, aligned, and centered correctly. And Yes, I read the comments and I found your video to be very helpful, thank you for taking the time to present your fixing holes solution.
Thanks! I was confused on what it could do
just started using tinkercad from using sketchup. GREAT video tutorial, haven't looked at your other videos yet but I sure will be, very well done vid, thanks, Bob
Thanks for the clear details on how to use tinkercad. I don't agree with your methodology. Design the part in CAD and include the required clearances. Making adjustments to the CAM is the correct way to achieve the desired dimensions, not altering the model to achieve a result that wasn't modelled. This way, you maintain a machine agnostic model that represents the desired end product. With subtractive machining, operators apply thermal adjustments, tool wear and backlash compensation to account for machine specific settings. Any QC processes are setup to ensure the finished product matches the design. The 3d printer CAM (aka slicers) have similar adjustments. With this, you never need to remix a properly designed model even if you change printers, filament or extruder sizes. Hope that helps
don't forget you can SAVE your designs and use them later like the Basic Shapes to the right. it's very cool, so don't forget to learn how to create a template like that.
Thank you for some good Tinkercad lessons.
Great video, I had a lot of benefit, thank you Bryan.
Thank you! This was quite helpful.
I have a bad habit of just drilling out wrong sized holes the next size up😂 i just made my first model and im really wanting to get better and actually be decent someday hopefully so ill be practicing
Thanks Bryan for another very informative video.
Great howto!!!!
Really dig your video. Thanks for sharing
Why are you Guys shouting at US Like crazy??? Do you think WE are deaf idiots?
2:55 is where the information begins
Found you while trying to learn how to modify a file. I'm new to this, so your video was very helpful. Just read the comments from the original designer, and if he hadn't made an error on the file, I would have never watched this video. 😆 Thanks for the content.
How many abbreviations can someone use in 10 seconds…..LOTS! 🙂
Just happened to run across this video which happened to pop up after watching a different video. I have been trying to figure out how to convert an .stl file to something I can edit in FreeCAD. You just made that whole process a waste of time for 99% of the file changes I usually make!! How simple (now that you have throughly explained the process) it is using TinkerCAD. Thanks for the excellent explanation! Best wishes, PiEyed.
Tremendous tutorial, I love when a creator shows real world applications rather than regurgitating tutorials in the existing software.
Great video!!! Thank you so much
Thanks Bryan, you taught me quite a bit about TinkerCad.
I think the most helpful part of this video is the fact that it demonstrates how intuitive TinkerCAD really is. You just add and subtract geometry. That's excellent!
Question Bryan: If you want to significantly changing the size of a STL design found on Thingiverse, how do you preserve the size of hinges and latches?
I found a Pelican case design on thingiverse that is huge (525mmx432mmx165mm) and my desired size size is 160mmx125mmx 45mm). If I drag the entire model to the smaller size, doesn't that collapse the hinges and latch connections also?
What's the best way to achieve a working but smaller size case?
I'm a beginner in printing 3D and want to learn how to do my own modeling. Like your tutorial. You made it easy enough so I don't feel to intimated to lean. Thanks
5 mins until you actually start working… Man….
It’d be nice if tinkercad made holes for common screws based on the user’s nozzle size.
Very cool. I've been designing in TC for years. I learned 3 new functions! F key Hide & using the Orthoview …. thank you.
Hi, I am brand new to 3D printing, my son gave me a CR-10 3D printer that he had picked up. One thing I have tried to do using TinkerCad was to print a bolt and nut that would fit together. However, TinkerCad is limited in capability so I am unable to make a bolt or nut from scratch. I have tried to find a sample that I could modify so they would fit together but have had no luck. Any suggestions? This is just a hobby, and since I am retired I don't really have the money to spend on a more expensive CAD system.
I'm pretty new to Tinkercad and this video taught me more in a few minutes than I've learned on my own in a few weeks of trial and error. Things like aligning centers is going to save me a bunch of time as is the orthographic view and transparency. I've actually turned entire models into holes to see the inside but it doesn't work nearly as good as transparency! +1 sub!
Hi Bryan! No, this isn't a hexagonal drill question lol! Rather, I have something very odd going on when I remix with Tinkercad. I wanted to remix a clip that snaps onto the rear of a pi400 so you can add a monitor. I made my adjustments & exported the stl. I brought it up in Cura to slice, and the changes were still there. After slicing, I tried printing it. It prints the piece I merged, then tries to print the original model, but at that point the nozzle is already at 0.5mm above the bed (0.3mm first layer with 0.2mm layer height), so the rest of the print is stringing our merrily….nowhere near the bed. I've tried Tinkering other models, and it happens every time – the first layer of the addition is printed instead of the entire outline.
Now, I've made sure my parts are joined & nothing is above or below the workplate. Any ideas on what's wrong? Thanks!
slow down your hurting my head😆😆
I watched this video to understand how to add remixes to tingeverse. But I saw something much more useful at 10:11 I always resized manually by changing the position, now this crutch is no longer needed. thank you very much!
Dang. I'm a sketchup guy but needed to edit a part and wondered if tinkercad could be used. I HATED tinkercad because (compared to sketchup) it seemed incredibly limited. In one short video you showed me how big of an idiot I am, and in what ways. 🙂 NICE VID DUDE!